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Alignment Kit 1 For Tesla Model S/X Refresh (02/2021-)

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N2ITIVE’s Alignment Kit 1 is designed to address both the common acceleration shudder and inner tire wear issues that plague the Tesla Model S and X.  Our latest design is easy to install and allows for the quickest alignments!

More information about the product

Description

If your Tesla X or S suffers from the common inner tire wear or acceleration shudder issues, this kit will completely eliminate these problems and allow you to both achieve up to 2-5x more life out of your rear tires as well as prevent premature half shaft wear.  Simultaneously, improved handling, responsiveness, aerodynamics, and efficiency can all be seen after the installation of this kit.  All our products are made with the highest quality materials and craftsmanship for years of endurance and are backed by a 3-year or lifetime warranty.

Acceleration Shudder & Inner Tire Wear On The Model S and X

Many all-wheel drive versions of the Tesla Model S and X suffer from what has come to be known as “acceleration shudder” or vibration that comes from the front end of the vehicle while accelerating at around 35 miles per hour.  This problem can also present itself as a clicking or clunking sound from the front of the vehicle also while accelerating through a turn and is symptomatic of premature wear on the front half shafts.  It is important to note that vibration in the front of the vehicle could also be coming from another source such as unbalanced tires or Tesla’s built in lane-departure warning, but this type of vibration will likely occur consistently and not only through acceleration.

The source of this problem stems from the outer CV joints in your Tesla’s front half-shafts, which help transmit power from the motor to the front wheels.  The chassis for the current day Model S and X are still based on the original Model S in 2012, which only had the rear wheel drive option in mind.  During the development of the all wheel drive versions, Tesla made a compromise to mount the front motor in a sub-optimal position rather than redesign the whole chassis ground up, which causes the half shafts to be positioned at an angle that is too extreme for smooth rotation.  The front motor  sits up much higher than the front wheels so that the half-shafts have to transfer power at a steep angle down to the wheels below which are well off-axis from the motor.  Combining such a heavy car with high torque motors and the steep angle of the half-shafts, over time certain parts inside the half-shaft will fatigue and become marred.  Once damaged, the half-shafts rolling over the imperfections are then felt as the “acceleration shudder”.  Our Alignment Kit 1 lessens the angle of the half-shafts to reduce binding, which both remedies damaged half shafts from worsening and will prevent the damage in the first place if installed before the shudder is felt.

Tesla themselves do not have a permanent fix for this, as they will likely replace both half shafts and also install a new left front drive unit clevis mount in the event that you bring your car in for service.  This will typically solve the shudder problem for a little while but not forever, as Tesla owners report the shudder coming back as quickly as 500 miles and up to 10,000 miles.  Tesla may not cover this repair under warranty, as they consider it a “wear and tear” issue much like worn tires or brakes.  It is possible to have them replace these parts under warranty, but you may need to put up a fight in order for them to do so.

Excessive negative camber and inner tire wear are the other problems you hear with Teslas, with some owners running through tires in as little as 6,000 miles while staying in Tesla’s alignment specifications.  If you suffer from this inner tire wear that so many owners experience, you could easily double or triple your tire life as your tires will now be perfectly symmetrical in alignment and wear evenly.  Our arms will pay for themselves over the span of a few tires, as our customers usually multiply their tire life by 2-5x after proper installation and alignment.  The arms are direct drop-ins for the factory counterparts, meaning they can be installed with ease by an alignment shop or even at home for those who are mechanically inclined.  Our installation instructions and videos will also guide you through the process, and we’re always here to help get your Tesla aligned right and driving safe.

Tesla X and S tire blowout images

Our Alignment Kit 1 for the Tesla Model S/X includes 2 main pieces for the 02/2021- models.  We start with a set of our RSX series ultra-precision lowering links, which allow you to easily and precisely lower your Tesla to help level the angle of the half shaft and reduce binding.  We recommend setting them to the -4 setting for half shaft protection, but our links are able to adjust down to -20 for those who are chasing the look.  You may notice a drop in ride quality past the -6 setting, and only a slight drop in height is required to reduce wear on your half-shafts.  Also in the kit are our SX-P2 adjustable camber arms.  These arms are to be installed in place of your current rear camber arms to allow you to set a perfect alignment.  The Palladium S/X come with adjustable toe arms from factory, so there is no need for an N2ITIVE toe arm for these models.

Our Kits come in three variations, fabricated primarily of a forged and heat treated high grade aluminum and anodized in the matte red, natural, and black finishes for great corrosion resistance.  The red and natural versions come with a 3-year warranty, while the black version comes with lifetime warranty.  The lifetime warranty version also comes with our new patent pending multi-alignment recall scale, allowing the user to preset multiple alignments and then recall them without the need to revisit an alignment shop.  These are both firsts in the automotive world and quite helpful for those who like to race their cars on the weekends.  With our multi-alignment kit installed, you can set alignment for the track, drag strip, and the street at any time.

Why Choose N2ITIVE

At N2ITIVE we give you the highest quality parts and craftsmanship at a reasonable price. Everything we create is meticulously thought-out, precision engineered and tested in both FEA and the real world!  All of our components are custom made, nothing off the shelf.  Our bushings for example are made in a dedicated factor with high strength steel that’s been electroless nickel plated for amazing wear and corrosion resistance.  Each bushing incorporates a Teflon infused Delrin liner for a lifetime of trouble-free, maintenance-free use.  You can count on us to only give you the best with our parts, backed with a hassle-free warranty to the original purchaser. Our products are the strongest, safest and most durable aftermarket Tesla parts you can buy, guaranteed!  Not to mention that they look incredible…

Installation

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: SX-P2

Estimated Labor: 1-2 hours
Parts and Tools Necessary:
-16mm, 21mm wrenches and sockets
-T30 Torx bit
-8mm Allen key
-Screwdriver or other small prying device
-Torque Wrench

BEFORE INSTALL:
-If the vehicle is equipped with air suspension, activate “Jack Mode” through the touchscreen before lifting the vehicle. The air suspension will attempt to self-level otherwise, which may cause serious damage, bodily injury, or death.
-Make yourself familiar with the proper way to jack and lift your Tesla before attempting installation.

REMOVAL:
1. Jack the vehicle up from the appropriate lift areas, as shown below. Using lift pads between the jack and the vehicle’s frame is highly recommended in order to avoid damaging the vehicle.
2. Loosen the lug nuts (21mm) and remove the wheel.
3. Remove the clip that attaches the wiring harness to the knuckle. A small prying device may aid in removal.
4. Remove the bolts that connect the camber arm to the subframe (16mm).
5. Remove the bolt that connects the camber arm to the knuckle (21mm).
6. Remove the camber arm from the vehicle. If you are having trouble removing the camber arms, rocking the knuckle/hub may aid in loosening and removing the arm.

INSTALLATION:
1. Verify that the arm being installed is correct, as the SX-P2 is mirrored for the driver and passenger sides. Although the arm is approximately stock length, decreasing the length by about 5mm will make the reinstall easier. The rod-end bushing is to be installed on the subframe side.
2. Realign and hand-tighten the bolts in their original positions. DO NOT torque the nuts or bolts at this stage.
3. Preload the suspension before torquing down the bolts. This can be done by jacking the knuckle up until the suspension is fully loaded. The car itself should feel like it is about to lift and the hub should be positioned as if the car was sitting on the floor. This step is critical in ensuring the bushings are correctly positioned when you drive the car.
4. Torque the bolts down to their appropriate settings. The bolts towards the subframe should be torqued to 63 ft/lbs (85Nm), and the knuckle side should be torqued to 111 ft/lbs (150Nm).
5. Reinstall the wiring harness to the bracket on the knuckle. Extend the arm back to stock length if it was shortened in step 1.
6. Remount the wheels back on the vehicle and torque down the lug nuts to 129 ft/lbs (175 Nm). Make sure to remove all jack stands and tools from under the vehicle before you let it down.

ADJUSTMENT:
-Adjustment of the SX-P2 is to be made using the 30mm wrench provided along with the arms. Other wrenches will likely be too large and damage the bracket (for the black lifetime finish).
-Loosen the T30 Torx bolt on the black collar as well as the 8mm allen bolt on the body of the arm. Both of these bolts must be loose for adjustment to be made.
-Tighten or rotate the adjuster clockwise in order to increase negative camber. Loosening or rotating the adjuster counter-clockwise will reduce negative camber.
-Once you are done adjusting, torque the 8mm and T30 bolts to spec. The 8mm allen should be tightened to 42ft/lbs or 56 Nm, and the T30 Torx to 8 ft/lbs or 11 Nm. Make sure the collar with the T30 is aligned with the rod end to avoid damage while driving.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: RSX-3

Estimated Labor: 0.5-1 hour(s)
Parts and Tools Necessary:
-21mm wrench and socket
-1.5mm allen key (included)
-Flat head screwdriver or other prying tool
-Channellocks (preferably taped to prevent damage)
-Torque Wrench
Recommended Settings: -4 mm on each lowering link

BEFORE INSTALL:
-If the vehicle is equipped with air suspension, activate “Jack Mode” through the touchscreen before lifting the vehicle. The air suspension will attempt to self-level otherwise, which may cause serious damage, bodily injury, or death.
-Make yourself familiar with the proper way to jack and lift your Tesla before attempting installation.
-For vehicles pre-refresh: the shorter 50mm links are to be installed in the front of the car, and the 70mm links in the rear. Keep note of how the links currently sit on the car, as this will be important for reassembly.

REAR REMOVAL/INSTALLATION:
1. Jack the vehicle up from the appropriate lift areas, as shown below. Using lift pads between the jack and the vehicle’s frame is highly recommended in order to avoid damaging the vehicle.
2. Loosen the lug nuts (21mm) and remove the rear wheel.
* Before removal of the lowering links, take pictures of the links as reference for reassembly. Improper positioning of the links will lead to error codes when you finish the install.
3. Pry off the sensor link from the ball attached to the camber arm. This can be done with a large flat head screwdriver or small pry bar, gently using the original camber arm as a fulcrum point. Always exercise caution when dealing with the links, as they have many points of failure.
4. Once one side is free, you may peel the link back until it pops off of the green arm attached to the ride height sensor. Again, use caution as the plastic can be brittle on the sensor side.
5. Using either your fingers or a channellock, press the N2itive lowering links back onto the studs. If using channellocks, it is advised to put a layer of cloth or tape between the link and the channellock to avoid damage on the finish.
* For customers with the RSX-2 links, please re-grease the links annually to ensure that there is adequate lubrication. Failure to do so may result in seized links, which may break off and cause errors in the suspension system.
6. Remount the wheels back on the vehicle and torque down the lug nuts to 129 ft/lbs (175 Nm). Make sure to remove all jack stands and tools from under the vehicle before you let it down.

FRONT REMOVAL/INSTALLATION:
1. Raise the air suspension to the “Very High” setting and activate “Jack Mode” through the vehicle’s screen. Some refreshed models may find the process easier with the wheel off.
2. Pry off the short sensor link from the ball attached to the camber arm. This can be done with a large flat head screwdriver or small pry bar, gently using the original camber arm as a fulcrum point. Use extreme caution in the front, as the arm and stud attachment are made of plastic.
3. Once one side is free, you may peel the link back until it pops off of the green arm attached to the ride height sensor. Again, use caution as the plastic can be brittle on the sensor side.
4. Some older models may require the fender liner to be trimmed. Test the range of motion that the green arm has, and if it seems to get stuck in the liner, trim accordingly to fit the longer links on the car. Please use caution to not cut the wiring behind the liner.
4. Using either your fingers or a channellock, press the N2itive lowering links back onto the studs. If using channellocks, it is advised to put a layer of cloth or tape between the link and the channellock to avoid damage on the finish.

ADJUSTMENT:
-Adjustment of the RSX-3 is to be made using the 1.5mm allen key as provided alongside the links.
-Loosen the allen screw one rotation to allow the neck to move freely. Tighten or rotate the link clockwise to lengthen the link, thus lowering the car. Loosening or rotating the link counter-clockwise will shorten the link and raise the car.
-Once you are done adjusting, tighten the set screw until it is snug. Do not overtorque the set screw, as it may strip or damage the neck.
-Adjustments can be made while the links are on or off the vehicle. We recommend you figure your preferred ride height before getting an alignment.

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